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Externship is a funny thing. It’s almost like training for a marathon. You first kick off your culinary adventures at school for about eight months. Learning countless methods, techniques, and taking classes that are all independent but related. Once you get to externship, you have to somehow find a way to not only apply what you’ve learned in school but apply what you learn in externship to your everyday shifts. You also have to constantly remember that you represent the restaurant, the school, and ultimately yourself. Before you know it, it’s week nine, and you’re sitting down with your overly gracious and understanding chef, discussing your improvements and what else you need to learn during the next half of externship!
And then boom! April 7th rolls around, and a bittersweet feeling of mixed emotions overcomes you to know that you’re done.
Anyway…let me introduce myself! Hiya! My name is Andrew James Belen. I’m currently a baking and pastry student at The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York working towards my AOS degree, which I will be receiving November 2013! I completed my externship in San Francisco, at Waterbar Restaurant along the beautiful Embarcadero, under the instruction of Executive Pastry Chef Emily Luchetti, Pastry Chef Angela Gong, and Pastry Sous, Ashley Whichard. I’ve been looking forward to externship ever since I could remember. It’s kind of like shopping for a car actually. You have to look around, until you find the one that perfectly fits you. I’ve always wanted to see the west coast, and considering my sister has lived in San Francisco for art school for over half a decade, I figured, ”why not!” So the hunt was on. I came across Waterbar, and a picture on their website of a slate filled with chocolate confections. I was immediately drawn in. I absolutely love their vision, mantra, and what they are about. I like to describe their style as simple, but with an honest purpose. Everything is utilized in a way that nothing gets muddled.
My expectations going into externship were incredibly high. Since I knew what I was getting myself into, I was super eager to get in the kitchens, and well, bake! Man, I was pleasantly surprised. Angela and Emily are some of the most understanding, knowledgeable, and sweetest chefs I have ever had the opportunity to meet! I knew that I was going to have to transition from being a lowly culinary student into a hard working pastry cook! I think because my expectations were pretty high, and the fact that they were met completely made me enjoy the externship experience even more, and made me work harder than I have ever worked before.
One of many moments I can recall was the opportunity to go to an event at Farallon Restaurant in downtown San Francisco with my Chef Angela. During this event, I got to talk to Chef Emily about advice regarding school and got a closer look at what banquets were about. I met Pastry Chef Terri Wu of the restaurant. I even tried my first oyster here!! Perhaps the reason why I enjoyed the experience so much was because it gave me a chance to see how another restaurant functioned.
In terms of learning…the amount of knowledge you learn during externship has NO comparison to school. During the course of these eighteen weeks, I’ve gotten so much advice, both regarding pastry AND life from all my chefs and managers. I feel like a sponge, taking in all this information. Culinary school is not a necessity. It is merely a tool that you can utilize for the betterment of yourself, because today a college graduate will almost always be looked at more closely than a person without a degree. That being said, if you have the passion, drive and commitment to achieve excellence then you will have no problems working your way up the ranks. The greatest lesson I’ve learned by far working these past eighteen weeks is learning to take information and successfully executing the task with minimal mistakes. Learning to manage yourself before anything else. Overall externship has not only given me the confidence, strength and knowledge in pastry, but it has made me a stronger individual as well. And that’s more than I could ever ask for. Thank you from the bottom of my heart to all the people at WB for making my externship experience worth while.

Kitchen crew: Zach Boyer, Patrick Lacanlale, Laura Panzer, Andrew Belen, Chef Liz Sassen, Victor Vela and fellow CIA Extern Dana Woodward
It’s the dead of winter. It’s blustering cold and foggy, most of California’s farmland is hibernating, and people are calling out sick with colds and flu. Then there is the orange! It’s a ray of sun, a kick of energy, a refreshing immune-system-bolstering snack. For chef’s and diners alike it is a welcome foil to the wonderfully rich and thick braises and earthy root vegetables that dominate the winter plate. And for me personally? A memory of childhood.
I grew up on a Washington Navel Orange grove outside of Fresno, California. At only two acres of oranges, it wasn’t our livelihood by any means, but it gave my parents something to make my brother and I do. My parents took care of the logistics while my brother and I did the manual labor throughout the year, with one exception: we outsourced picking. Every year a crew would come and clear the whole neighborhood’s trees, all by hand. My parents always had them leave about a dozen trees for home consumption, and for my brother and I to appreciate what all those pickers who came every winter did for us.
But, before there can be picking, there must be blossoms. Every spring the orange blossoms would open and the air would be filled with the heady, thick and sweet aroma. The air would swarm with our neighbors’ bees; we let them keep hives on our property in exchange for gallons of pure orange blossom honey. We would slurp away at this honey on buttermilk biscuits and watch through the summer and autumn, as tiny green specks grew into bright orange globes. When Thanksgiving hit, Dad would start calling out the processor to test the Brix, or sugar content, of the fruit. This would continue bi-weekly until the optimal degree Brix was reached, then picking would commence. The trucks were filled within the day, and the fruit went off to be sorted and sold as eating oranges across the country.
Meanwhile everyone we knew that wasn’t a neighbor in the same boat would get buckets of oranges from us. All our suburban friends, teachers, co-workers, bus drivers, you name it, they got and looked forward to their annual holiday bag of oranges. We ate oranges in every fashion imaginable: raw, juiced, baked, stewed and more. And our stockings always had an orange stuffed into the toe on Christmas morning.
By February, what fruit remained were the size of softballs and soon even those would drop and compost the tree they came from. By March the trees were flush with new growth and buds would begin to form and the orange life cycle would continue.
As my dad was in the agriculture industry, we were always well stocked on all the improved and/or new varieties of citrus. We always had samples of the juiciest Clementines, the deepest blood oranges, and the sweetest grapefruit. Citrus fruit are an interesting genus in that they cross-pollinate, graft and hybridize very easily. They take very well to human interaction and without it there would not be most of the citrus we have today. Similar to apples, a citrus seed (if there is one at all) may or may not produce the same fruit that it came from. For sake of consistency almost all citrus is grafted to strong and disease resistant rootstock, creating clones on each grafted branch of the original tree. This was the case with my Washington Navels, with the first of its kind being a natural mutation which occurred over 200 years ago. Many of our most beloved citrus varieties are either clones of these freak incidents or are intentional creations of human intervention in the natural process of hybridization (even the Bay Area’s Meyer lemon is not a naturally occurring fruit). We tried our hand at growing other citrus, but nature made it clear that this was orange growing land when our various attempts at grapefruit and lemon failed.
Many years have passed, though, and my family has all moved away. The family that purchased the land cleared out the grove, presumably in an attempt to develop the land (but this was before the housing bubble burst). I have no idea what has happened to that land since, but every winter I relish in memories as I sink my teeth into some juicy citrus.
So in celebration of all this winter citrus that is upon us, here is a recipe for Waterbar’s Orange Charmoula, a great condiment for grilled fish.
Yields 1 pint
Toast coriander & cumin seeds, grind fine with a mortar and pestle.
Mix together all 3 spices, with zest, garlic & oil.
Add chopped cilantro & parsley to the oil and combine.
Chop all citrus and add with all the juice to the oil mixture.
Adjust with salt, more orange or lemon juice if necessary
Cheers,
Liz
Here are a few examples of the beautiful citrus available now at Waterbar:
Washington Navel: sweet-tart fruit named for a second growth that occurs forming a “navel” in the blossom end of the fruit. They are great for eating straight out of hand, slicing into salads, or simmering in mulled cider. They are not ideal for juicing for the juice obtains a very bitter flavor from sitting even an hour.
Valencia: a later season orange, with very sweet and juicy flesh. This is your typical juicing orange.
Seville, a.k.a. sour oranges, a.k.a. bitter oranges: thick rind, dry flesh, bitter and sour as the named suggests. They are prized for marmalade. With their aromatic rind and sour, floral juice, they work great as a vinaigrette. They are also the most common rootstock for citrus grafting as hearty, freeze- and disease-resistant plants.
Blood: originally a mutation, though modern varieties are grown through hybrids. Colors range from orange striped with re, to through-and-through burgundy. They are an excellent juicing orange and applications range from mimosas, to the Hollandaise sauce “Maltaise” flavored with it, to sorbet (sounds like brunch to me!).
Cara Cara Navel: much debate is to be had as to where this fruit came from, whether it is a hybrid or a mutation, but what is known is that it descends from a Washington Navel in some way and is more or less a larger sized, pink fleshed and somewhat sweeter Navel orange.
~ Liz
During our busy holiday season, it’s a wonder we found time to build a gingerbread house, but as they say, “it takes a village.” And it really did. From the initial concept to completion it was a true team effort.
How could we top last years’ replica of Waterbar? There are so many great landmarks in San Francisco. Coit Tower? The Ferry Building? In the end, we looked out our windows to our next door neighbors and found our inspiration. Engine 35 and Fire boat 1 on the Embarcadero.

The key to a good gingerbread house, like any house is a solid foundation and strong bones. Especially in our earthquake prone part of the world (and a bustling restaurant).
Once the windows were installed and the roof was set, the details began to fall into place.
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That is when we called in the big guns.
A bit of snow provided the finishing touch before showtime.
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A few touch-ups along the way were to be expected from the sweet tooth in the restaurant (Brian).
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One of the most rewarding moments was when we invited our neighbors over for an unveiling.
People often ask which season is best to enjoy oysters. If you’re an oyster-lover like me, then the answer is anytime. However, oysters, like most other fresh food, are often available all year round but are best at the peak of their season. In the winter months, oysters are fat, plump, juicy, and brimming with the delicious brininess of the sea. But what makes a December oyster so much more special than a July oyster?
The proverbial “only eat oysters in months with “R” immediately comes to mind. Nobody quite knows where this adage orginated. Some say it started with Caesar and the Romans, others say that it was seasonal eating advice passed on from Native Americans to the settlers and adapdted to the namesake months. Though stories of its origin may be apocryphal, there is some truth to its practice.
First, oysters love the cold. Well, not literally. We love them cold. It’s best to keep oysters as cold as possible without freezing at all times. As with all seafood, they spoil when at warmer temperatures. Back before refrigerated shipping was possible, oysters would spoil quickly when shipped in the summer months. You certainly wouldn’t have caught me eating an oyster on a hot, 19th century day in Placerville. However, with the advent of refrigerated shipping, oysters assuredly make it to your plate without ever rising above 40 degrees.
Second, oysters reproduce in the warmer summer waters. As soon as the waters start hittting 60-70 degrees, oysters start thinking about babies. This means that a wild summer oyster will tend to be a bit on the leaner side and not quite as flavorful since its exerting so much effort into making other baby oysters. However, oyster farmers often curtail this process by growing oysters in deeper, colder waters or using non-breeding oysters. The Kachemak, an Alaskan oyster we carry, never sees waters warmer than 50 degrees and therefore is perfect all year long.
Finally, like bears, oysters hibernate, in a sense. Just as oysters spawn in warmer waters, they close up and hibernate in colder ones. The ‘Goldilocks’ zone for a oyster is 45-55 degress. This is when they feed and filter best. However, as soon as the fall comes and temperatures start creeping down, oysters start storing up reserves. This is precisely why oysters are best in the winter months. They are chock-full of rich glycogen and buttery sweet. In December and January, they have just finished storing up all these reserves. Thus, right at their peak.
In celebration of the peak of oyster season, we are featuring a new, festive mignonette and wanted to share the recipe with you.
Marin Miyagi topped with Blood Orange-Jalapeño Mingonette
Blood Orange-Jalapeño Mignonette:
2 Medium Sized Shallots
2 Large Jalapeños
1/2 Cup Rice Vinegar
1/2 Cup Blood Orange Juice, freshly squeezed
1 Tablespoon Blood Orange Zest
1. Finely dice the jalapeños and shallots. Mix all ingredients together in a medium mixing bowl. Serve chilled as a sauce for raw oysters.
Yields 1 cup
So now is the time to enjoy oysters at their best with citrus at its best. Many other cultures do the same. Nearly half of the oysters consumed in France annually are eaten between December 25th and January 1st. Almost 50 percent in just 6 days! Follow suite and enjoy a few dozen and a few glasses of sparkling wine this wonderful holiday season.
Cheers,
Greg B
Sitting down to a wide selection of a variety of oysters can be an intimidating experience. What do I recognize? What did I have last time? What’s the difference between them? I find it best to approach them like wines or coffees. More often than not, in a wide selection of oysters, you will be choosing from many of the same species, just grown in different areas and styles. Depending on the region and growing method, the same exact oyster can deliver different sizes, shapes, tastes, and textures. The excitement of oysters lies in their endless diversity with such a simple and humble presentation.
But where to begin? The best place to start is understanding the differences between the five main oyster species consumed in the United States.
The Pacific Oyster
Crassostrea Gigas
Common Names – Miyagi, Totten Inlet, Chelsea Gems, Kusshi
Originally from the Asian Pacific, the Miyagi oyster is the most commonly grown and consumed oyster on the West Coast. Grown from Baja California all the way to Alaska, they are a staple of oyster menus around the country. It’s a very hardy variety and can grow, quickly, in almost all aquatic environments. Many aquacultured Pacific oysters can reach market size in just eighteen months. They can often be distinguished by their fluted, jagged shells and vivid multi-colors ranging from royal purple to jade green. In flavor and texture, Pacifics are generally creamier and brinier than other oysters. They finish with fruit and vegetal notes ranging from an herbaceous Tomales Bay oyster to a melony British Columbia.
The Atlantic Oyster
Crassostrea Virginica
Common Names/Examples – Beausoleil, Wellfleet, Malpeque
As the name might suggest, the Virginica oyster is native to the East Coast of the United States and grows from the Gulf of Mexico all the way to the Canadian Maritimes. In contrast to the Pacific oyster, Virginicas are distinguished by their tear drop shape, smooth shells, and uniform colors: brown, cream, or forest green. Their growth is particularly affected by water temperature, as an oyster from Virginia may reach market size in eighteen months while a Nova Scotian oyster may take four years. Virginicas are generally crisper and brighter than their Pacific counterparts and will often deliver a clean brininess with a minerally, savory finish.
The Kumamoto
Crassostrea Sikamea
Originally from the Kumamoto prefecture in Japan, this oyster was brought to the West Coast for cultivation in the early 20th century. An immensely popular variety, Kumamotos are known for their small size, deep cup, creamy texture, and cucumber-melon finish. Few farms grow the Kumamoto, as its seed is difficult to obtain and it grows quite slowly. However, many oyster farmers have started using a farming method known as tumbling to make Pacific oysters more like Kumamotos in shape, size, and even flavor. As in any oyster, Kumamotos vary from region to region. Take note of their differences depending where they come from such as Baja California, Humboldt Bay, or Puget Sound.
The European Flat
Ostrea Edulis
Common Names – Belon
The European Flat, also traditionally known as the Belon from the river of the same name in France, is considered by many to be the Cadillac of oysters. Rarely found in U.S. establishments, the Flat is only grown by a few farmers in the U.S. and Canada and also grows wild in the Damaricsotta River in Maine. Easily distinguished by a larger, flat, saucer-like shape and seaweed green color, its flavor is an absolute roller coaster. They have a large, plump texture that hits you with coppery, metallic notes right way. It finishes with a strong, gamey flavor that will linger for minutes after. We carry them as often as possible, but primarily get them October through February.
The Olympia
Ostrea Lurida/Ostrea Conchaphila
The only native oyster to the Pacific coast, the San Francisco Bay once teemed with Olympias. As the Gold Rush brought more and more people to the West, the native oyster was quickly over-fished and decimated beyond recovery by the 1870′s. Now, it is cultivated by few farmers, as it is very slow and fickle in its growth. They primarily come from surrounding bays and inlets by the namesake town in Washington. Olympias take up to four years to grow to the size of a quarter. But don’t let their shallow cup and tiny size fool you. As the smaller cousin of the European flat, the Olympia packs an overwhelming punch. Flavors of sweet cream, celery stalk, and copper rush your palate and remain for quite some time. It’s always a pleasure to eat one and think of the original San Franciscans enjoying the very same oyster decades ago.
Hopefully, with a basic understanding of the five varieties we eat, your oyster experience can be all the more rewarding and delightful. These briny bivalves are not only delicious, but also arguably the most sustainable seafood available. They’re a true insight into the regional diversity of North America and an ocean friendly food. Please check our Twitter and Facebook updates for notice of when we have all five varietals available.
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Common Names |
Species |
Common Examples |
Characteristics |
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Pacific Oyster, Miyagi |
Crassostrea Gigas |
Fanny Bay, Royal Miyagi, Kusshi, Drakes Bay |
Varying brine, creamy, herbaceous, vegetal, melon |
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Atlantic Oyster, Eastern Oyster |
Crassostrea Virginica |
Wellfleet, Blue Point, Beausoleil, Pemaquid |
Varying brine, mineral, savory, crisp |
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Kumamoto |
Crassostrea Sikamea |
Humboldt Kumamoto, Shelton Kumamoto, Royale Kumamoto |
Buttery sweet, creamy, cucumber, honeydew melon |
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European Flat |
Ostrea Edulis |
Belon, Glidden Flat, Damariscotta Flat |
Strongly flavored, metallic, iodine |
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Olympia |
Ostrea Lurida/Ostrea Conchaphila |
Totten Olympia |
Strongly flavored, sweet celery, copper, iodine |
Cheers,
Greg
Have you ever tried a tiny spoonful of luxurious caviar and thought beyond those individual buttery pearls? Well, when we were invited to join Pacific Gourmet and Petrossian on a behind-the-scenes tour of the Sterling Caviar farm in Elverta, CA, we didn’t hesitate to take a step back to look at the big picture.
On the drive up to Sacramento County, past the orchards, dairies and fields of vegetables, I was reminded that knowing the source of our food firsthand is not just important, it’s invaluable. At Waterbar, we take pride in getting to know the people who produce food for our restaurant.
Peter Struffenegger, Sterling Caviar’s General Manager and resident biologist started our tour in the processing plant. He taught us a lot while we watched the white sturgeon harvest which happens every spring. The females selected for our visit averaged 117 pounds each. Some of those ladies were born as early as 1999, a relatively young age for this prehistoric species of fish, which can live well beyond 100 years old.

The harvest was an efficient process, but what surprised me most was the simple processing of egg to can. After the two giant ovaries are surgically extracted from the recently deceased fish by a two-man team, the huge packets of eggs are bagged and walked over to another refrigerated room.

The caviar is “grated” over a wire mesh screen where the eggs separate from connective membranes and drop into a stainless steel bowl.
This gets whisked away to another area where it’s weighed and a precise ratio of salt is added.
Once mixed, the caviar is laid out on another mesh tray set over ice for exactly 10 minutes. Some of the moisture drips away and then the caviar is scooped and mounded into various sized tins. Each tin is filled with the eggs from only one particular sturgeon. They are not mixed. The lid is gently applied and these cans get pressed for one day, releasing more liquid and air.
The packing part is complete in 20 minutes. But few people realize that the caviar needs to be aged at least 3 months, sometimes much longer. The process is like wine, where the caviar makers taste it along the way, waiting until its optimal peak. At that point, the cans can be sold to customers worldwide to enjoy the creamy, briny pop of these tiny treasures.
When asked to post to Waterbar’s blog, I got a little worried. Geez, what could I possibly bring to the table to speak of! After wracking my brain and mulling over possible ideas, a thought came to my mind: that’s it! I’ll ask Chef what he likes to cook for his family when at home! Chef, who is unbelievably busy, said that he’ll give me a recipe, but that I would have to stand in the private dining kitchen and take notes while he was cooking. Negotiating the special flooring & avoiding the boiling cauldrons in my Manolos was kind of exciting in itself! Chef told me that when his kids were 4 and 5, he and his wife Ingrid, who is also a chef, came up with this recipe because it would keep the kids busy at the dinner table for a very long time! After about 3 years, the recipe became more of a Christmas tradition for the Ulrich Family. I can’t wait to try it out and hope that you will do so too!
Ingredients:
Dungeness crab (usually one crab for 2 people unless it is very small)
Grey Sea Salt (you can use Kosher, but, since it is processed, you lose the minerals)
Cooking oil
Butter
Cooking Instructions:
Preheat oven to 450 degrees.
Step 1: Bring a large pot of water to boil and add enough grey sea salt so that it’ll taste like the ocean. (about ½ cup).
Step 2: Boil crabs for 4 minutes, remove from water and place in an ice bath. You can actually do this several hours before serving.
Step 3: Clean crabs by removing shell and insides so that crabs are ready to roast. Cut the crab into individual legs.
Step 4: Drizzle oil on the crabs, place on sheet tray and place in oven.
Step 5: Roast for 10 minutes, remove & serve w/seasoned drawn butter.
Wine Pairing Suggestion: Steve Izzo, Beverage Director for Waterbar suggests serving roasted crab with an oak-aged Meursault or a well balanced Chardonnay from the Russian River Valley.
–Nita Howard – Director of Sales and Business Development