Have you ever tried a tiny spoonful of luxurious caviar and thought beyond those individual buttery pearls? Well, when we were invited to join Pacific Gourmet and Petrossian on a behind-the-scenes tour of the Sterling Caviar farm in Elverta, CA, we didn’t hesitate to take a step back to look at the big picture.
On the drive up to Sacramento County, past the orchards, dairies and fields of vegetables, I was reminded that knowing the source of our food firsthand is not just important, it’s invaluable. At Waterbar, we take pride in getting to know the people who produce food for our restaurant.
Peter Struffenegger, Sterling Caviar’s General Manager and resident biologist started our tour in the processing plant. He taught us a lot while we watched the white sturgeon harvest which happens every spring. The females selected for our visit averaged 117 pounds each. Some of those ladies were born as early as 1999, a relatively young age for this prehistoric species of fish, which can live well beyond 100 years old.

The harvest was an efficient process, but what surprised me most was the simple processing of egg to can. After the two giant ovaries are surgically extracted from the recently deceased fish by a two-man team, the huge packets of eggs are bagged and walked over to another refrigerated room.

The caviar is “grated” over a wire mesh screen where the eggs separate from connective membranes and drop into a stainless steel bowl.
This gets whisked away to another area where it’s weighed and a precise ratio of salt is added.
Once mixed, the caviar is laid out on another mesh tray set over ice for exactly 10 minutes. Some of the moisture drips away and then the caviar is scooped and mounded into various sized tins. Each tin is filled with the eggs from only one particular sturgeon. They are not mixed. The lid is gently applied and these cans get pressed for one day, releasing more liquid and air.
The packing part is complete in 20 minutes. But few people realize that the caviar needs to be aged at least 3 months, sometimes much longer. The process is like wine, where the caviar makers taste it along the way, waiting until its optimal peak. At that point, the cans can be sold to customers worldwide to enjoy the creamy, briny pop of these tiny treasures.


























